South Africa: Country Profile

On the wedding day the bride wears a headdress that reminded the poet I.D. du Plessis of the golden ballets of Bali - the medora - and a veil. She receives guests in her first wedding dress while the bridegroom attends the ceremony at the mosque. She is represented there by her father.

In the old days she would be fetched by a coach drawn by four white horses plumed with ostrich feathers, driven by a coachman wearing the traditional toering (tudong: Malay for conical straw hat). Several changes of dress would follow. Should she belong to a wealthy family, a third and even a fourth dress might be worn.

In his book on the Cape Malay, du Plessis described how another carriage would follow behind her 'containing four bridesmaids in sea-green, with tall, pointed head dresses spiked out with gold from which floated embroidered veils of green'. Today, of course, people travel in cars and, sadly, the brilliant spectacle of plumed horses can no longer be seen.

But the bride is still resplendent in silk and she still wears a gilded headdress, which is typically Malay, and she will change her gown at least once. The most significant date on the Islamic calendar is, of course, Ramadan, during which the Malay fast for a period of a month.

When the new moon is sighted the Malay get together to prepare their feasts. Once again the Spirit of Kanalla prevails and the poor, who perhaps cannot afford it, are given meat by the more affluent. During the fast of Ramadan an important event occurs for which the Malay traditionally prepare by cleaning their houses.

This is the Holy Night, in which forgiveness of sins is granted to the faithful. During this night, the angels and souls of Heaven descend to earth and many miracles are performed. Their religion is a practical one, a way of life and, although they are a peace-loving community, if their way of life is threatened, the threat will be met with stern resistance.

When I visited Zany, the effervescent owner (her name suits her) of the Bo-Kaap Bazaar, she offered me little cakes and told me they were twee-gevriets (two-faced). True enough, each side had a different face in icing. I asked her what this meant, and she told me that during the early years of Apartheid, 50 or so years ago, General Hertzog promised the Malays a better deal.

He never honoured his promise. Today the memory of this statesman is celebrated somewhat ambiguously in this culinary fashion. Zany's sister, Shereen, has a thorough knowledge of the history of the Bo-Kaap and takes groups on daily tours around the region. On your tour you may find yourself surprised by the number of pigeons.