Horse Riding High in the Western Cape

My back feels like it's breaking and my buttocks are bruised beyond belief. Every step jars my knees as Magic quickens the pace. But all the agony is worth it. Magic is strong and he climbs sure-footed up the winding path to the remote Langeberg peak.

The view is majestic. Crisp clear mountains stretch into the distance, every crevice visible in the soft winter light. We cross a small stream and ascend the green cultivated foothills above Robertson. The earthy smell of pine forests is invigorating and my city spirits soar as Magic takes me to a horse-riding high.

Going back over the years, horses and I have never seen eye to eye. In university days, my only equine interest revolved around the race track, studying the form and plotting optimistic jackpot permutations. My hands-on experience was limited to a half-hour gentle trot in the Drakensberg many years ago. So it's with more than just a twinge of trepidation that I'm driving through Cape Town's pouring rain to fetch Carl Shwinges of 'der Kap Ritt' (the Cape Ride) for our four-day horse adventure through the western Cape.

Carl caters for horse trails from four to 14 days, visiting as many as 11 stables along the scenic route. On every trip, the riders experience the vastly different landscapes of the Cape and itinenaries can be planned according to the clients preferences. If the final day of a trail falls on a Sunday during the Hunt season, the riders have the opportunity to witness the fascinating spectacle of a drag hunt.

We're headed towards Franschhoek and it's raining so hard that the Berg River is in flood. We can barely see for the torrential downpour and the sodden vineyards are waterlogged. First stop is Mont Rochelle wine farm but in this weather, there's little chance of a horse ride today. 'The dams have risen by a metre and the roads have turned into rivers,' says Elsa Post who manages the stables. 'The ground is far too slippery for the horses.'

After touring the stables and tasting their wine, we head up the Franschhoek Pass. Raging waterfalls cut across barren mountains shrouded in mist. As we arrive at Klein Paradys Equestrian Centre near Kleinmond, the storm clouds break and a weak sun pushes through.