Horse Riding High in the Western Cape

Later we drive on by car towards Montagu, then take the dust road to Mont Eco Nature Reserve. The reserve takes its name from its approach to nature - extremely eco-friendly. Electricity is provided by solar power, toilets are of the septic tank variety and each chalet has separate dustbins for recycling different types of trash. Mont Eco has a wide variety of flora and fauna with blue wildebeest, springbok and bontebok often viewed on horse trails.

We're invited to dinner at the Gatskraal homestead where Tom Lewis, the manager of the reserve, has been preparing a delicious lamb potjiekos. I gaze up at the heavens and am amazed at the vastness of the Milky Way. I've never seen so many stars studding the inky black heavens with their pin pricks of light.

The next morning I wake and can hardly move. My knees don't function and my calves are swollen from the previous days ride. After rubbing in handfuls of arnica oil, it's time to hit the horse trail again.

My horse for the day is Rocket, who hopefully won't live up to his name. My bruised body couldn't cope with the bumps and pace. Besides, there's no need to gallop through paradise. A herd of springbok bounce away over the hills. Several suspicious wildebeest watch us warily from across a donga. For miles around, the hills of the stark Klein Karoo envelop us in a soothing sense of peace. There's no hurry on horseback and the pace is calm and relaxed.

Carl's love for horses is quite evident. After every ride he dismounts carefully and affectionately strokes the animal's sweaty neck. 'There boy .. there boy, that was great. You were so well-behaved. Thanks my friend,' he says softly to his horse.

It's only mid afternoon so there's still time for a sunset ride in Robertson. My horse Magic seems quite content to dawdle and sit at the back as we wind up the precarious path. I watch in wonder as Ashton and Robertson become small dots below. Far away, the Breede River winds towards to the east. We reach the lookout point and stop to rest our horses.

It's a warm day and they must be tired after the steep climb. As the shadows start to lengthen, we descend slowly, picking our way down the rocky path. Sensing his supper, Magic breaks into a canter as we approach the stables.

Diemersfontein Country House outside Wellington is the ideal place to spend our final night. We're in the lap of luxury and revel in the sumptuous surroundings and fine food. The next morning before sunrise, a dappled white horse poses for me at the paddock gate. An eerie mist rises slowly off the Diemersfontein dam. Then, almost imperceptibly, the tall trees in the distance lighten with the coming of dawn.